Diamond Old Cuts

Below, we are going to give you a brief overview about diamond old cuts antique diamonds.

In short: Old Mine (1700s-1830s) and Old European (1830s-1930s) cuts are hand-cut antique rounds with high crowns, small tables (typically 38-45%), open culets, and chunky 58 facets that throw warm, candlelight-friendly fire. They face up about 5-10% smaller than modern brilliants of the same carat. Reset originals from Victorian or Edwardian New York stock command rising premiums in today's auction market.

Every antique diamond carries a little history in its facets. Long before lasers and computer modeling, diamonds were shaped entirely by hand and by eye — cut to catch candlelight, not to hit a formula. That is what makes the old cuts so special. Old mine and old European cuts glow with a soft, romantic sparkle and a warmth that no modern round brilliant quite recreates, and no two are ever exactly alike.

If you love the idea of a stone with real character — the kind that looks like it has a story — an old cut rewards a little understanding before you buy. Below, we cover how to recognize old mine and old European cuts, why they have surged back into fashion, and what to look for so you choose a beautiful one.

VINTAGE DIAMOND CUTS AND ROUND BRILLIANTS: WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES?

A Round Brilliant and old diamond cuts are often compared to each other, but there are subtle differences that can make a big difference in what you are buying. A Round Brilliant is often what people imagine when they think of a diamond, which is the classic diamond cut that can be found in jewelry like engagement rings and necklaces, and its shape is typically round with a cone shape at the bottom.

An old diamond cut has a few distinguishing features - they tend to be a lot deeper with a steep crown or pavilion angle from the stone when you look at it from the side. But predominantly, you will recognize old cut diamonds by their sparkle - it is warmer and deeper than a Round Brilliant, which tends to have a white sparkling effect.

Another feature is its number of facets, which are the flat surfaces arranged in a geometrical pattern; old cut diamonds will typically have 58 facets, in comparison to a Round Brilliant’s 57. An old cut diamond is cut by hand to maximize the clarity and size, which is why it tends to have less symmetry. You will also recognize a vintage diamond cut according to its cutting techniques, which predate modern machinery.

Perfectly imperfect, an old cut diamond provides that extra charm and always provides that extra sparkle.

THE TYPES OF DIAMOND OLD CUTS

An “old cut” is a term to describe any diamond that predates modern diamond cutting advancements. Since 300 BC, the process of creating diamonds has evolved, and over time, have fallen into a number of distinct categories according to cut.

EUROPEAN DIAMONDS CUT

Also known as the Old European Cut, or OEC, a European diamond cut refers to a diamond cut between the years 1890 and 1930. One of the most popular antique diamond ring styles, OEC diamonds were handcrafted, and in comparison to modern diamond cutting techniques that produce Round Brilliants every time, each OEC diamond cut evokes a unique beauty.

You can identify a European diamond cut by its deep body, bigger and more open cutlet, with a larger and heavier crown and flatter facet.

OLD MINE CUT DIAMONDS

Popular between the 18th and 19th centuries, old mine cut diamonds are incredibly rare and valuable. The term “old mine cut” indicates that the diamonds have been spruced from Brazil or India, but can also be African in origin.

You can recognize an old mine cut diamond by its soft square shape, curved edges, small table, and large cutlet. Another distinguishing feature is its chunky facets, as it may have been cut with numerous patterns. You can also tell an old mine diamond by the presence of a circle in the middle of the small table.

ROSE CUT DIAMONDS

Taking its name from its resemblance to a rosebud, a rose cut diamond is instantly recognizable by its flat bottom and dome-shaped crown that rises to a single apex. Rose cut diamonds typically feature between 3 and 24 triangular facets, and as rose cut diamonds were designed to sparkle in the candlelight, you will always see its beauty up close and personal.

A very popular design in the Georgian and Victorian eras, rose cut diamonds emerged in the 16th century and were formed into a variety of shapes, including oval, round, hexagon, and square. It is also a lightweight diamond because of the removal of the pointed bottom area, making it easier to carry around. Many people gravitate towards an antique diamond of this stature because of its rich, illustrious history and versatility.

BRIOLETTE CUT DIAMOND

Distinct in appearance, a briolette cut diamond looks similar to the pear-shaped diamonds cut by modern machines. Rounded at the bottom and pointed towards the top, it is a visually striking diamond that gained popularity in the 17th century. Briolette cut diamonds are usually cut with Indian diamonds in sizes of 10 to 12 carats, but in some cases, can go up to 50 carats.

A briolette diamond is one of the few styles that transcended a number of eras, including the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras, there are a wide variety of designs on offer. Commonly seen in bracelets and necklaces, briolette cut diamonds are visually striking, not just because of their shape, but because of their color- it's not uncommon to see colored briolette diamonds with shades of yellow and blue, making them rare, valuable, and amazing to look at.

WHAT SHOULD YOU CONSIDER WHEN BUYING ANTIQUE DIAMONDS?

Antique diamonds provide the perfect companion piece for your engagement ring, wedding ring, or as part of your old cut diamond collection. When buying antique diamond old cuts, you must consider the essential components like the shape, color, and monetary value, but you should also go with how you feel about it. Sentimental value and uniqueness are just as essential.

An antique ring should be cherished as it is a truly unique artifact because of the cutting techniques at the time. You should always gain a full understanding of a diamond, how it shines, how it physically feels, and it makes you feel inside. At Reve Diamonds, we appraise all diamonds to ensure you understand how special your diamond really is. Get in contact to find out more today.

Old-cut diamonds: frequently asked questions

What are old-cut diamonds?

Antique cuts from before modern machine cutting — mainly the old mine, old European and rose cuts — hand-faceted for a softer, romantic glow.

Because each Old European Cut was shaped by hand, no two are quite alike — small variations in the faceting are part of the charm, and they give OEC diamonds a soft, romantic sparkle rather than the sharp, uniform flash of a modern round brilliant. Cut in the age of candlelight and early electric light, they were made to glow gently rather than dazzle, which is exactly why they're so prized in antique and vintage rings today. If you love the character of a period stone but want the reassurance of a report, look for an OEC graded by GIA and view it on video, so you can see how its larger facets come alive in low light.

Old mine cuts come in two main shapes. The classic square old mine cut has a soft, almost cushion-like square outline with gently rounded corners — the most recognizable and collectible form. The elongated old mine cut stretches that outline into a longer, rectangular cushion shape, closer to what we'd call an elongated cushion today. Both share the same chunky facets, small table and high crown that give old mine cuts their warm, candlelit glow; the elongated version simply suits longer fingers and anyone who prefers a more rectangular look.

Do old cuts sparkle like modern diamonds?

No, and that is the appeal: they have a warm, candlelight-like glow and bolder facets rather than the intense, uniform sparkle of a modern brilliant.

Why are old cuts popular now?

A vintage-cut revival, driven by celebrity rings such as Taylor Swift’s and Zendaya’s, has made old mine and old European cuts highly sought after.

Are old-cut diamonds a good buy?

They are unique and characterful; each is individual, so judge it by eye rather than by a modern cut grade.