Buying & Guides
The History and Tradition of Engagement Rings
In short: Engagement rings date back to ancient Rome, but the diamond version took off after 1477, when Archduke Maximilian gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond ring — and again after a 1940s advertising campaign made diamonds the norm. The ring finger tradition is older still.
Ancient origins
The Romans exchanged betrothal rings as a public sign of a promise to marry, often a simple iron or gold band. They also gave us the ring finger custom, believing a vein — the vena amoris — ran from the fourth finger of the left hand straight to the heart. Rings have signalled an intention to marry ever since.
Medieval and Renaissance rings
Through the medieval and Renaissance periods, betrothal rings grew more decorative. Gimmel rings, made of two or three interlocking bands, let each partner wear a piece until the wedding joined them. Posy rings, engraved with short romantic verses, were popular tokens of love. Diamonds appeared occasionally, but only among the very wealthy.
The first diamond engagement ring
In 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy with a ring set with thin, flat diamonds arranged in the shape of an 'M'. It's the first well-documented diamond engagement ring, and it set a fashion among European nobility for diamonds as a symbol of betrothal.
The Victorian romantic era
Queen Victoria's reign brought a wave of sentimental jewellery. Engagement rings of the period featured hearts, flowers, snakes (a symbol of eternal love, thanks to Victoria's own ring) and coloured gemstones alongside diamonds, often in richly detailed gold. Old mine and rose-cut diamonds gave these rings a soft, candlelit sparkle.
How diamonds became the standard
Diamond engagement rings stayed a luxury of the wealthy until the twentieth century. In 1947 the advertising line 'A Diamond is Forever' reframed the diamond as the essential, once-in-a-lifetime symbol of commitment. Within a generation, a diamond engagement ring had become the expected choice for couples across much of the world.
The ring finger tradition
The fourth finger of the left hand has stayed the customary home for the engagement ring in the UK, US and many other countries, a direct inheritance from that Roman vena amoris belief. Other countries wear it on the right hand, and some move it between hands from engagement to marriage — all variations on the same ancient idea.
Engagement rings today
The tradition is now wide open. Lab-grown diamonds offer the classic look at a lower price, coloured gemstones and fancy-colour diamonds bring individuality, and bespoke designs let couples build something entirely their own. The through-line, from ancient Rome to now, is simple: a ring as a lasting, visible symbol of a promise.
History of engagement rings: frequently asked questions
When did engagement rings begin?
They date back to ancient Rome, where betrothal rings were worn on the ring finger as a sign of a promise to marry.
Who gave the first diamond engagement ring?
Archduke Maximilian of Austria, to Mary of Burgundy in 1477 — a ring set with flat diamonds in the shape of an 'M'.
Why do we use diamonds?
A 1940s advertising campaign, 'A Diamond is Forever', made the diamond the standard symbol of engagement.
Why the fourth finger of the left hand?
From the ancient Roman belief in a vein — the vena amoris — running from that finger straight to the heart.
What are engagement rings like today?
Anything you want — lab-grown and natural diamonds, coloured gemstones and bespoke designs all sit alongside the classic solitaire.
More engagement ring guides
How much to spend on an engagement ring
Engagement ring vs wedding ring
